B.I.R.O.
Birds Injured Rehabilitated Orphaned
WORKSHOP MANUAL
CONTENTS
B.I.R.O.
Birds Injured Rehabilitated Orphaned
WORKSHOP MANUAL
CONTENTS
b) When the bird has recovered from shock
ii) Physically examine the bird.
a) Products to keep on hand for feeding
e) Points about caring for baby birds
5. FOSTERING THE RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR VET
i) Physical examination of head injuries.
ii) Visual observation following trauma.
e) Other signs which may be indicative of head injuries
i) How to build nest boxes for Birds and Possums.
(2) BOX SIZE and ENTRANCE HOLE
a) Passerines and Non-Passerines
d) ALTRICIAL and PRECOCIAL BIRDS
i) SOME POINTS ON RAISING BABY BIRDS:-
a) Releasing hand raised babies
26. Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease
28. MAINTAINING PHYSICAL and PSYCHOLOGICAL HEALTH IN LARGE NATIVE PARROTS
· Are you willing to make the commitment to the bird?
· Do you have the appropriate facilities needed? E.g an appropriately sized cage, a quiet room.
· Can you keep the bird safe from your pets or neighbours pets?
· Can you care for the bird? That is, can you feed it 3-4 hourly during the day if necessary? Can you take it to work?
A FEW POINTS:
· If hand rearing an orphan, your ultimate goal is to prepare the bird for release, not to make a pet of it. Birds require food and warmth, not kissing and cuddling.
· Find out as much as you can about the bird's behaviour e.g. its foraging habits, what it eats, its social habits, its habitat etc. There is so much more to know other than “This is a magpie, it eats worms”. Information is out there. As much natural food as possible need to be found for the bird.
· When raising babies, try to group the same species together in a crèche, they are less likely to imprint on you if they are being raised in a group. Swap your babies with other members to facilitate this.
· Release of a group of birds generally shows a higher success than releasing individuals.
Examine the bird briefly and stop any bleeding. Bleeding can be stopped by placing some clean cloth (not towelling) over the wound and apply firm pressure for about 5 minutes. Be careful not to restrict the bird' s breathing if the wound is on the body. Carefully remove the cloth to ensure that bleeding has stopped. Do not remove any blood clots.
Birds that are in shock appear weak, unresponsive, fluffed up and breathe in slowly and out quickly. Place the bird in a quiet, semi -dark, warm, humid environment. Warmth is essential - as birds have a much higher body temperature than humans. A healthy bird's body temperature is around 40° – 42°. Warm the box temperature to around 30° – 32°. Place a clean cloth or some newspaper in the bottom, which is laid out flat. A hot water bottle can be filled with hot water from the tap and wrapped in a slightly damp cloth which is placed near the bird. Alternatively heat can be generated from an electric light bulb or heating pad. The bird will take 4 to 6 hours to recover from shock – if it doesn't - seek advice. While the bird is in shock, don't force it to eat or drink.
Stand a short distance away and examine the bird visually. Look for any deformity, unusual wing positions or lameness. Note the following:
Eyes - need to be both open and bright. Pupils need to be equal in size. Unequal pupil size may indicate head trauma. If eyes are partly closed then the bird is unwell. One eye closed may mean an injury or infection. Check to see if the bird responds to the movement of your hand.
Head - head nodding, head tilting and periods of eye can indicate severe illness or trauma.
Breathing - a healthy bird's breathing is hard to detect. Laboured breathing may mean possible respiratory infection
Feathers - missing feathers may indicate an underlying wound. Feathers fluffed out mean the bird is unwell and trying to warm itself.
Posture - birds that are weak will sit. A healthy bird will sit only to sleep leg paralysis can be caused by insecticide poisoning, trauma to the head or spine, or fractures in the back, legs or pelvis.
Wings – need to be similar in the way they hang. A drooping wing can indicate a fracture. A broken wing can be immobilised by taping the wing in its natural folded position (not too tightly so as to restrict breathing). Micropore tape or vet rap tape doesn't stick to the feathers. If the bird has obvious injuries such as a broken wing, missing foot or broken leg, then seek veterinary advice.
Begin by examining the head and check for any sign of eye injury, abrasions, beak injury etc. Check the neck feathers for feather loss or matting which may indicate a wound. Feel the body, paying attention to the breast (keel) bone and breast (pectoral) muscles. If the breast bone is prominent and the muscles feel sunken, starvation, parasites such as worms, or a chronic illness may be indicated. Examine each wing. Gently hold the wing tip and pull it away from the body, so the bones and joints can be felt for fractures or dislocations. Examine each of the legs for fractures. The bones in the legs are easier to feel if the leg is extended.
Cuts and wounds can be gently cleaned with a dilute solution of antiseptic such as Savlon or hydrogen Peroxide 1% or a solution of warm salt water. Don't remove any clots of blood as this can start the bleeding again. If the bird has been injured by a cat or dog, veterinary assistance needs to be obtained as to the need for antibiotics. The bacteria in cats and dogs mouths can cause severe infection, so the bird may die in a few days, if not from an actual puncture wound to one of the organs.
A few things you can consider getting as a standard first aid kit:-
· 1 roll micropore tape (1 or 2 cm) or Vetwrap for taping wings.
· 1 roll sticky tape used for taping snapping beaks when examining birds. .
· 1 bottle antiseptic powder (such as Medi-Puff available at supermarkets)
· Liquid such as Savlon liquid or hydrogen peroxide 1% for use on open wounds.
Special note: Avoid the use of antiseptic cream or ointment, as they can contaminate the feathers and cause excessive preening or self mutilation.
Please contact one of your co-ordinators if you have a bird of prey (hawk, eagle, owl, etc) or a baby tawny frogmouth as these birds have special requirements.
· High Protein Infant Cereal such as Heinz High Protein Cereal for infants from six months, or Farex
· High Protein Cereal for infants from six months (good for all infant seed eaters)
· Wombaroo Insectivore Raising Mixture (ideal for mixing with lean mince for insect/meat eaters) Packet dry cat food (soak in water for insect/meat eaters) Dry Lorikeet Mix (lorikeets and honeyeaters)
· Oxheart (cut into small pieces and freeze, for meat eaters)
Keep in mind that you need to keep to the bird's natural diet as much as possible. Birds need a balanced diet of protein, carbohydrates, fibre, fats, vitamins and minerals as well as clean water. Birds like variety so interchange the suggestions following:
Honeyeaters, frogmouths, magpies, kookaburras, dollar birds, peewees, kingfishers, crows, pheasant coucals, noisy miners, butcherbirds, plovers, friar birds, currawongs, swallows, silvereyes, pardalotes, cuckoo shrikes, koels.
Juveniles - mince mix dip in water, mealworms, insects, soaked cat biscuits, pet food mix, egg and biscuit mix.
Adults - mince mix, meal worms, insects, soaked cat biscuits, meat variety cat food, egg and biscuit mix.
Hawks, eagles, falcons, frogmouths, kookaburras, magpies, butcherbirds.
Juveniles - soaked cat biscuits, mince mix, chopped baby mice/rats, chopped baby chickens, insects, strips of lean meat dipped in insectivore slurry, ox heart.
Adults - strips lean meat dipped in insectivore slurry, ox heart, mince mix, mice, chopped baby chickens, large insects.
Honeyeaters, friar birds, noisy miners, lorikeets
Special note: omit mince mix for lorikeets. Most honeyeaters, friar birds, noisy miners are also insectivores.
Juveniles - nectar substitute thickened with high protein cereal to a semi-runny consistency, lorikeet dry mix, egg and biscuit mix, small amount sugar nectar, small amount soaked cat biscuits and mince mix, soft fruit, chopped greens, native blossoms.
Adults - as for juveniles.
Figbirds, orioles, some pigeons, koels
Juveniles - soft fruit, native fruits such as lillypilly, figs etc, figbirds, orioles and koels can be also given small amounts of soaked cat biscuits and mince mix, insects and mealworms.
Adults - as for juveniles.
Galahs, cockatoos, rosellas
Juveniles - a commercial hand raising mix, high protein cereal mix, egg and biscuit mix, chopped greens, soft fruit.
Adults - commercial seed preparations (depending on the size of the bird), fruit, chopped greens.
Special Note: Adults need to be given access to mineral sand and shell grit.
Juveniles-a commercial hand raising mix, high protein cereal mix, egg and biscuit mix.
Adults- commercial seed preparations, grass seeds.
Special Note: Adults need to be given access to mineral sand and shell grit.
Ducks, native hens, coots
Juveniles - chopped greens, chick/turkey starter, pigeon seed, multigrain bread, mealworms, insects, mince mix, pet food mix.
Adults - greens, wheat/pigeon seed, multigrain bread, mealworms, insects, mince mix.
Note: water birds like to have water near their food and dabble their food in it.
Quail, scrub turkeys etc
Juveniles - insects, mealworms, chopped greens, mince mix, chick/turkey starter, seed, fruit, pet food mix, mince mix.
Adults - same as juveniles.
· Wombaroo Insectivore Rearing Mix - usually available from produce and pet stores.
· High Protein Cereal- available from baby section in the supermarket sold as ‘Heinz High Protein Cereal for infants from six months’ or ‘Farex High Protein Cereal for infants from six months’.
· Hand Rearing Mix - available from produce and pet stores for rearing baby seed eaters.
· Egg and Biscuit Mix - available from produce and pet stores.
· Calcium powder - calcium carbonate available from produce and pet stores.
· Lorikeet Dry Mix - available from pet stores, produce stores and supermarkets.
· Diet Mixes
Mince Mix - handful lean mince, two teaspoons insectivore, pinch of calcium powder, two teaspoons ground cat biscuits. For juveniles, roll into balls appropriate to bird's size then dip into water before giving.
Nectar substitute (1) – 1 cup raw sugar, 2 raw beaten eggs few drops bird vitamins, such as Avi-Vite. Make up to four cups with water. This can be batched into daily requirements and frozen. It can be thickened with High Protein Cereal.
Nectar substitute (2) - Use any of the following and interchange regularly - High Protein Cereal, Vitabrits/Weetbix, crushed plain biscuits, rolled oats, semolina, rice flour. Just prior to feeding, mix the dry ingredients with water and a little honey to a semi-runny consistency.
Sugar Nectar - 4 heaped tablespoons brown or raw sugar to 500ml warm water. Mix till dissolved.
Egg and Biscuit Mix - mix with a little water to a crumbly consistency. For juveniles, roll into small balls appropriate to bird’s size and dip into water before giving.
Pet Food Mix - mix two parts meat variety of cat food to one part high protein cereal.
Chopped greens - finely chop spinach, silver beet, lettuce, grass, thistle, dandelion. Lettuce has little nutrition by itself and cabbage needs to be avoided.
The diets mentioned are suggestions only. Remember, variety is very important.
Never squirt water down a bird's throat. This may result in the bird inhaling the liquid into the lungs. Use an eyedropper placed near the side of the bird's mouth and let the bird swallow the drops slowly.
Don't put a new bird with birds that you may already have caged - disease is easily transmitted.
If you have a sick bird, keep them isolated and clean the cage thoroughly with disinfectant after use. Always wash your hands after handling a bird and before you handle another bird.
Precocial birds are those birds such as plovers, waterfowl and quails that are born with most of their feathers when they hatch. They can usually feed themselves straight away. As with all baby birds, they need to be kept warm. Keep water and food near them in shallow dishes.
Special note: baby water birds such as ducklings like to have their food in their water.
Altricial birds are born with no feathers and their eyes are closed. Warmth is absolutely essential for these birds. As a bird's normal body temperature is around 40° - 42° they need to be kept in a constant warm humid environment with air temperature around 35° to sustain normal body temperature. Gradually decrease the temperature as their feathers grow. Tiny babies can be fed around every two hours to start with, then gradually increasing the time over a few weeks. Don't feed a baby bird unless its crop is empty and it has passed droppings since its last meal. If it hasn't digested its last meal check the temperature, it may be too low. Clean the baby after feeding with warm water and a tissue. The amount of food fed at each feed depends on the age, size and species of bird. A general rule is to continue feeding until the crop appears well rounded and taut. Don't overfeed. Disturb the baby as little as possible between each feed. Thoroughly wash feeding utensils between feeds.
· Never forget that the relationship with your vet is a two way street.
Keep in mind these following points:
· Your vet is very busy running a business with paying customers. Although most vets are happy to assess an injured native animal, you may have to bear the cost of any drugs etc used for the bird.
· If you have a bird that needs veterinary assessment, phone the surgery to see when they can fit you in. You may also drop the bird to the surgery in the morning and ask if the bird can be assessed some time during the day when the vet has time, and pick it up in the afternoon. Make sure you communicate with the vet via a note to tell him of your findings.
· Give the surgery some feedback on the outcome of the bird.
· Offer to take birds in from your vet that need care.
· Most vets are fairly good with birds, but may be unaware of certain behavioural differences between caged birds and native birds. e.g. Tawny Frogmouths and birds of prey rarely drink water, so there's not much point in giving a medication that has to be put into water, they will not get it.
· Encourage the veterinary staff to ask finders of the birds to leave their phone numbers.
Native bird care can be an emotionally challenging thing to do. The death rate to expect is at least 50%.
Think of the events leading up to the death. Can we learn something?
If you make a mistake learn something from it. It's easy to throw your hands in the air and say I can't do this anymore. It takes a good carer to admit their mistake if only to themselves and rectify it in the future.
Consider the following scenarios:
· You get a baby bird in. Despite correct management e.g. warmth, food etc it still dies within a few days. What went wrong? What did I do wrong? Sometimes, by reasoning why this bird came into care can be helpful. In the case of the baby bird, his history is that of falling 30 feet from a tree. Internal injuries, if not obvious is the most reasonable explanation. Was there a defect in the baby to begin with? Parent birds will sometimes kick babies out of the nest if they have something wrong with them.
· A bird comes in with a history of a car hit. Despite having no apparent injuries other than shock, he dies within a few days. He may have been eating and looking reasonably happy. Again internal injuries have to be suspected. Even if this bird did have a wing or leg fracture which was treated, other reasons such as blood clots moving etc cannot be ruled out.
· A finder brings a bird to you. Its history is not known. The bird presents with heavy labouring breathing and a rattling sound in the chest. The finder tells you that they have given the bird a drink. This is alright if the finder puts a bowl of water in front of the bird and the bird drinks itself. However, some finders first reaction to finding a bird injured is to squirt copious amounts of water down their throats which can lead to the bird inhaling the liquid and contracting pneumonia or just drowning. Finders will also feed birds the wrong thing e.g. giving mince to a baby dove. The mince will just sit in the crop and cause a crop impaction or fungal infection. When talking to someone on the phone advise them not to give the bird anything to eat or drink before they get to you.
Euthanasing a bird need to be done by a vet who will give an overdose of anaesthetic by injection. Sometimes we get a bird in at times when a vet is unavailable, that is weekends, at night or public holidays. If the bird is in a lot of pain and has no future or is dying, we as carers sometimes have to do it ourselves. Our method is to gently bind the bird's wings in a crepe bandage. Place the bird in a plastic bag (the snap-lock type) or a plastic container which can be sealed airtight. A small piece of cloth or cottonwool is then soaked in ether (available at chemists or vets) and placed into the container with the bird. The container is then sealed. The bird will go to sleep before eventually dying. We find it safest to wait a few hours to make sure the bird has died and if rigamortis has set in the bird will be stiff and you can be sure it has died.
Be careful with the ether. It is a highly flammable liquid. Do not use it in unventilated situations or you may find yourself passing out. Keep the ether away from children’s reach.
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CAUSE |
LOOK FOR: |
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Trauma - |
Shock |
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Broken bones |
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Bleeding |
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Car Hits |
Feather Matting |
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Building Hits |
Obvious deformity |
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Window Hits |
Inability to fly |
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Animal and Bird |
Attacks Inability to stand |
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Lameness in 1 or both legs |
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Tenderness over any part of body |
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One or both eyes closed |
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Head nodding |
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Uncoordinated movement due to brain injury |
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Pupils not contracting and dilating to light and dark |
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Rattling in air sac areas |
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Bubbles of air under skin |
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Wounds |
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Obvious feather loss, damage |
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Fits |
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Blood coming from ears, mouth, nose, vent, blood in faeces |
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Sickness |
Shock |
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Bird fluffed out, eyes dull |
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Poisoning |
Paralysis |
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Disease |
Inability to fly, stand |
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Old Age |
Laboured breathing |
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Lesions in mouth |
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Vent soiling |
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Fits |
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Shock |
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Sneezing, nasal discharge |
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Eye discharge |
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Unusual droppings |
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Listlessness |
This is not a complete guide. It will just give you some things to look for
Candida, a yeast, is one of the most common forms of fungal infection. It can be caused as a result of a direct injury, non hygienic methods of feeding babies, or as a result of illness in the bird. It may occur in the respiratory tract, the skin, but mostly occurs in the digestive tract. i.e. the mouth, throat, proventriculus, crop, gizzard, intestines etc.
In the mouth, it can appear as tiny yellow or white spots which spread and form a “plaque”. These “plaques” can be scraped to reveal a red raw area which may bleed.
Antibiotics do not treat fungal infections and actually can make them worse. Anti-fungal medications are available and your vet can do a microscopic slide and advise of the best medication.
Canker is the result of an over abundance of a protozoa (a microscopic animal). There are several different types of canker, some causing minor problems while others cause death very quickly. It can cause white spots and ulcers in the mouths of birds. The spots can vary from tiny white spots to large, firm cheese-like masses. The parasite can also cause other deposits which we can't see in the crop and lower oesophagus. Pigeons, finches and raptors are the most commonly affected. Birds with canker may appear listless, have poor body condition, may regurgitate frequently or lose their appetite. Your vet can do a microscopic slide to determine if the area is infected with canker.
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Coccidiosis is a common parasitic infection of many species of birds, especially in ground feeders. Birds become infected after eating the parasite egg which has been passed out in another infected bird's droppings. Young birds are more susceptible and it is thought that older birds develop some immunity. Overcrowding and poor hygiene which results in stress can contribute.
Some birds mildly infected show no signs of illness. Birds severely infected show weight loss, dehydration, listlessness, diarrhoea, blood in droppings. A vet can do a smear for coccidiosis to determine the presence of the parasite. Drugs used to treat coccidiosis include amprolium and sulphonamides. Good hygiene and proper quarantine practice can reduce the chances of severe infections.
There are many types of external parasites that can infect birds, lice, mites, ticks, flies and mosquitoes. Infection is usually started by close contact with an infected bird. Infected birds can show no signs, or scratching and excessive preening, tatty feathers, abnormal moulting and even anaemia in severe ongoing infestations. These groups of parasites usually live by sucking blood, tissue fluid and cells. Some can cause internal infections. Parasites are a part of a bird's life and small numbers usually don't present major problems. Usually when a bird's immunity is down through illness and stress they become a problem and overcome the bird. There are many commercial insecticides for dusting birds with external parasites, but we use just a simple low irritant fly killer that contains pyrethrum/piperonyl butoxide which is effective against lice and flies. Lightly spray the bird including under the wings, taking care to keep the eyes covered. The spray can be sprayed onto a cloth and wiped over the head area. Leave it on for a couple of minutes and then wipe the bird down with a damp cloth to remove excess spray or give it a quick bath taking care to keep the bird warm while drying.
Avian pox is a viral disease which can affect numerous types of bird species. Each species of bird is affected by a different virus. Therefore the strain of virus that affects magpies is not the same virus which causes it in pigeons. The virus is spread by either direct contact with an infected bird or mosquito bites. Different species show different signs of the disease. In early stages it may occur as blisters that appear on the bare parts of the bird's body, that is the legs and eye area. Lumps can also be present in the respiratory tract and in the mouth. Affected birds may have no appetite, discharge around the eyes, pus filled lesions, crusty lesions and breathing may be affected. Some infected birds may appear bright and happy. There is no specific treatment that is effective. Lesions may disappear with local treatment and good husbandry but these birds are still carrying this virus in their body. If these birds are released they face a recurrence of symptoms within a short time and they are spreading this virus to others of their species. Euthanasia is probably the kindest option in the long term.
Gapeworm (Spiruroid worm) is a worm parasite that infests the throat, pharynx and oral cavity. We see it mostly in young ground feeding insectivores such as magpies and peewees. Gapeworm (Spiruroid worm) infestation leads to difficulty in breathing, coughing and weight loss (often severe in advanced cases). Some birds badly infected may gasp for air through open beaks which is why some call it gapeworm. Death is usually caused by starvation because the bird cannot swallow. You can see the small light coloured worms at the back of the throat. You may also see little round white coloured balls in the mouth area. Avitrol Plus is said to be effective as well as Ivermectin. Gapeworm usually needs to be treated on a continuous basic for a few treatments to be successful. Consult your vet as to dosages if in doubt.
Structure of the Brain
The causes of head injuries can be:
Car hits, window hits, building hits, animal attacks, nest falls for babies.
Some viruses can cause neurological symptoms consistent with head injuries. This is very hard to treat unless you want to spend a million dollars on tests. Vets may treat the symptoms with a cortisteriod and a specific antibiotic.
Where was the bird found? Found on or near a road? The most probable scenario is they have been hit by a car. What were the circumstances unfolding? Was the bird found near a window? A good chance it has hit the window. Found hidden in a garden? It may be ill. Birds that are feeling ill do not go and sit near a busy street. They will try to hide themselves. The circumstances surrounding the bird will be helpful in your detective work to find out what the problem is.
Head Any evidence of ruffled feathers, feathers matted with blood.
Eyes Pupils - are they even? Do the pupils react by constricting quickly when you shine a torch into them? A pupil which is dilated and doesn't constrict when a light is shone into it may indicate pressure inside the eye. If the pupil is continually constricted it may mean a decrease in pressure in the eye. Does the bird react to the movement of your hand? Eye problems need to be seen by a vet for proper assessment.
Swelling Any unusual swelling? Is there any bruising on the skin? Bruising and swelling usually accompany a fracture and the skin can appear green blue or brown.
Eyes Is one eye closed? This may indicate a head injury or an eye irritation. Does the bird appear to see properly? Does it have the "lighthouse effect"? (A term we use to describe a head injury in which the bird's head moves in the fashion of a lighthouse light - where the head is continually moving left to right or visa versa)
Legs Can the bird perch and balance on both legs evenly?
Weight Feel along the breastbone. Is it sharp or nicely rounded? A sharp keel may mean the bird has had a head injury for some time and hasn't been able to feed properly.
Head Does the bird look normal? Observe the bird by comparing with others you've had in care.
Inability to fly in the absence of any physical abnormality or profound weight loss.
Uncoordinated movements e.g. walking in circles. (These birds are not usually drunk).
Fits/Convulsions.
Blood or clear fluid leaking from nostrils, ears or mouth. Behaviour that is not normal.
Head injury victims that are going to recover, usually show a gradual improvement after a couple of days. If a bird is showing continual signs of improvement day by day then it may be worth continuing. If a bird is not improving in any way or improves to a point and then fails to continue then the bird may have permanent brain damage and euthanasia considered.
Spinal
injuries are usually the result of trauma such as car hits etc. This
is where your detective work comes into play. Spinal injuries are
sometimes hard to detect and difficult to differentiate from head injuries,
kidney infections and nervous system disease.
Leg paralysis is not always caused from poisoning. If a bird is found on the side of the road with leg paralysis, it has not usually been poisoned. A bird that is suffering from poison will usually start to feel ill and it will attempt to hide itself. These birds are usually found in gardens hidden in a quiet spot.
Spinal injuries in the lower spine can affect the function of the legs. The tail may also sit out of alignment.
Spinal injuries in the top of the spine can affect the wings. The bird's wings will usually be limp and the bird cannot lift them.
Kidney infections or disease will also produce leg paralysis due to the pressure placed on the sciatic nerve. Keep an eye on the faeces for any sign such as blood in urine, very hard urates, excessive amounts of urine etc.
Observe if the blood is in the faecal content, urates or urine. Check to see that the blood isn't from a wound near the vent or a prolapse. Blood in the faeces can indicate internal trauma, a heavy worm infestation or coccidiosis. Blood in the urine or urates can indicate kidney damage of some kind or lead poisoning.
Treatment consists of rest by placing the bird in a box and observation. You may have to hand feed. If the bird improves gradually each day you might have a good result in time. If no improvement at all is shown within two weeks, euthanasia may need to be considered.
Structure of the spine
Structure of the eye
The cornea is the transparent covering over the front of the eye. Corneal ulcers can occur from an injury, infection or foreign body. It can appear as a slightly bluish white area on the corneal surface. It is best viewed in semi darkness with a torch at a sharp angle. Small ulcers usually heal quickly with no treatment. As with all eye injuries, it is best to ask your vet's opinion as to their treatment. Not all eye ointment is suitable, as steroid eye drops can inhibit healing and set up a different infection. Successful outcome depends on how long the bird has had the injury and your treatment. They should be regarded as serious, especially in birds that hunt.
A hyphema occurs when there is an accumulation of blood in the anterior (front) chamber of the eye. This usually results from trauma such as a car or window hit or rodenticide poisoning. Treatment is usually a topical steroid and rest. Some respond to treatment, some do not. It depends on what area of the eye has been affected.
Uveitis is a general term for inflammatory conditions of the inside structures of the eye. They can be very painful. Your vet will advise of the course of treatment, which is usually corticosteroid drops. Treatment depends on how long the bird has had the condition. Some respond if they are treated in its early stages. The pupil may appear constricted and star shaped in appearance.
Leg and wing fractures must be one of the most common reasons for a bird to come into care, due to window hits, car hits and animal attacks.
Birds that rely on flight to hunt need to have near perfect flight. A crested pigeon that has had a fractured wing will be fine to release as long as it can gain altitude and fly off quickly to avoid predators. A predatory bird such as a peregrine falcon will starve to death very quickly if there is only a slight wing aberration. Also consider lorikeets. Their lifestyle is to fly at great speed, load up on food and go off again at a million miles an hour. Insectivores such as swallows, dollar birds, black faced cuckoo shrikes catch their prey on the wing. Release is not viable if the flight is not near perfect. Always consider the bird's lifestyle when making an assessment. Migrating birds that have had wing fractures must be 100% fit and fly very well. This means appropriate housing to get the best possible fitness level.
Watch wild species and observe any birds in care without wing injuries. Observe what is normal flight and try to remember it.
Compound fractures and breaks on or near joints have very poor prospects of recovery.
Some minor fractures may need to be strapped for a short time to restrict movement. to allow healing to commence.
Vet wrap or micropore tape work well for strapping. Confine the bird for the initial period of healing (around 10 – 14 days). Remove high perches from the cage and have a lower perch available.
Strapping a fracture should minimise the movement of the bone, reducing the pain, and keeping it in a stable position to allow healing.
When a bone breaks the two broken ends start to heal by forming a “bridge” across the break. The bridge will be much thicker than the bone to start with, and if you feel the area after a few days you will feel a knob of bone over the break which will be uniting the broken ends. The bridge will eventually shrink to become the same size as the original bone. For a fracture to mend properly the broken ends need to be close enough for the break to mend and the limb must be kept still. A fracture may heal but there maybe injury to the nerves or blood supply which prevents the limb from functioning normally.
Example of closed fracture
Example of open or compound fracture
Wing Fracture Management
Splinting leg fractures
Correct housing is very important. A bird with a wing injury cannot recover fully if they are in a small cage after the initial confinement to rest the wing. Birds start to lose muscle tone in the flight muscles after about fourteen days. Small cages also cause feather damage. While not seeming very important, feather damage is something that should be avoided. Lifestyle of the bird comes into play. Birds that hunt on the wing eg swallows, dollars birds, birds of prey etc rely on perfect feathers to be able to hunt successfully.
are alright for baby birds and smaller birds the size of noisy miners etc. They can be used initially to confine a bird with a wing injury or a sick bird.
Alright for medium size birds such as magpies, parrots, kookaburras etc. They can be used initially to confine a bird with a wing injury or a sick bird.
The larger the better. A useful size is 3m long by 2m high by 2 m wide. Birds need as much flying space as you can give them before release. Most pre-fab aviaries are made of zinc-alum and can be very hot in summer. Branches can be placed on the roof to reduce the temperature inside the aviary.
NOTE: Certain species of birds should never be placed in wire cages. Birds of prey, the hawks, falcons, eagles and owls will repeatedly throw themselves against the wire and cause sometimes irreversible damage to beaks, ceres and feathers. A large cardboard box is the best initial container to place them in (make sure you have an old towel in the bottom for them to have something to grip onto) until you can get them to an appropriate facility.
Concrete can be used under a covered part of an aviary because it is easy to clean, but bear in mind that it is undesirable for water birds feet. Other materials can be used, such as pea sized gravel, leaf litter etc as long as it is replaced periodically.
Perches need to be natural perches from branches if possible. They need to be of different sizes and smooth wooden dowelling or metal rods need to be avoided. There is no need to provide hundreds of perches. You are trying to facilitate flying. A couple at each end of the aviary at different heights is suitable, making sure birds have access to sun and shelter if the weather is bad.
Commonsense is the key here. Do not house predatory birds such as kookaburras with fairy wrens or doves. Avoid mixing nocturnal and diurnal birds together. Usually birds of the same size can be housed together. Avoid housing birds of prey with anything else. If you have any questions regarding compatibility, contact one of your co-ordinators.
Simple Box Cage
Old tea chest or packaging crate
A useful sized aviary
The loss of old trees with suitable bird and possum nesting hollows to the ever growing development of SEQ is a major problem for wildlife. Thus providing artificial nest boxes seems a logical and caring idea.
There are a number of specific important points in building boxes so that native wildlife will use them. Materials, sizes and Installation places must be built with the desired species in mind.
Timber is best as it is a good insulator provided it is at least 2-3 cm thick. Marine ply is excellent as it is waterproof and tough. Do not use metal, chipboard or treated pine (green coloured).
BOX
SIZE and ENTRANCE HOLE(See diagrams attached)
- Important points:
- Boxes need to be screwed not nailed to make them stronger.
- Boxes need to be wind and rain proof.
- Drainage Holes (1 cm diameter) need to be drilled in the bottoms of all boxes at well spaced intervals.
- Roofs need to be rough or have groves in them to prevent the animal from slipping.
- Mesh needs to be installed inside from the floor to the entrance hole to prevent entrapment.
- Birds require saw dust to be provided in the bottom of their boxes.
Bird boxes need to be installed as high as possible for safety against predation, but low enough to be cleaned and regularly maintained.
They need to be hung from a tree fork by a piece of wire strung through a piece of garden hose so that it does not cut into the tree. Alternatively, they can be nailed to the tree using two strips of galvanised steel attached in a way which does not cause ringbarking.
The
entrance of the box need to face away from prevailing winds, and need to be
shaded during the hottest parts of the day.
- Bird Nest boxes need to be cleaned and repaired after each breeding season.
Possum boxes need to be left so that they smell "lived in", which makes them even more inviting next time round.
However if you don't feel your up to building a nest box. The Wildlife Preservation Society of Queensland has a program entitled "Homes for Wildlife" which sells complete boxes - Phone (07) 3425 3160.
Article Source - Grant J. (1997) ~The Nest Box Book. Gould League. Victoria.
|
Species |
Height |
Width |
Depth |
Entrance Hole Diameter |
Distance off ground |
|
CRIMSON ROSELLA |
55cm |
20cm |
20cm |
10cm |
5m |
|
EASTERN ROSELLA |
50cm |
15cm |
15cm |
7cm |
4-10m |
|
GALAH |
75cm |
20cm |
20cm |
12cm |
6m |
|
BRUSH TAIL POSSUM |
40cm |
30cm |
30cm |
10cm Possums need 2 holes for escape ease |
3-5m |
|
RINGTAIL POSSUM |
45cm |
20cm |
20cm |
7cm |
3m and above |
|
RAINBOW LORIKEET |
80cm |
13cm |
13cm |
8-10cm |
5m |
|
SULPHUR CRESTED COCKATOO |
1m |
30cm |
30cm |
18cm |
7m |
Vertical Bird and Possum Box
Angled Bird Box
Kookaburra Box
Jean has designed a hospital warming cage which also would be useful this time of year. It can be seen in its large dimensions below but can be reduced down to about 40cm by 40cm.
Hospital Warming Cage
The function of feathers is:
· Flight
· Insulation
· Grooming
· Sensory Function
There are ten outer feathers on the wing called primary feathers, and ten smaller feathers down from the primary feathers called secondary feathers. These are the most important feathers for flight, balance and steering. Damage to these feathers may prolong captivity. Damage need to be avoided to these and tail feathers by appropriate housing i.e. not placing a large bird in a small cage for long.
Bristle feathers are found mostly around the eyes, the lores, the mouth and nostrils. They are mostly found in insectivorous birds which are thought to have a sensory function. Filoplumes are long hairlike feathers which are thought to monitor the position of other feathers.
Powder feathers are special feathers whose barbs disintegrate into a fine powder and are thought to aid the bird in grooming and waterproofing. .
The function of the skeleton is:
· Protection
The skeleton provides protection for the internal organs such as the skull for the brain and the keel and ribs for the internal abdominal organs.
· Movement/Rigidity
The skeleton provides a rigid framework for the attachment of muscles and allows movement.
· Respiratory
The major bones in the bird skeleton such as the humerous and femur are hollow and filled with air and are connected to the respiratory tract.
Diagram of the digestive tract of a typical seed eating bird
The esophageus is basically a long thin tube of muscle which connects the mouth to the proventriculus or glandular stomach. The esophageus widens midway in some birds (not owls) and forms the crop. The crop is a temporary food storage area which allows birds to “load up” quickly on food and digest at a later time.
The proventriculus is the first stomach area which is a soft walled glandular tube. It starts secreting digestive enzymes and mucous to start breaking down the food.
The gizzard is the second stomach area which has thick muscular walls and functions like a set of mammal teeth, grinding and mixing the food to allow further digestion.
The small intestine mixes bile and pancreatic juices and most nutrients in the food are absorbed here.
The large intestine absorbs most of the fluid.
Normal bird droppings consist of three parts:
Faeces - bowel movements. Its colour will vary with diet. Lorikeets have very runny faeces while seed eaters have a harder type faeces.
Urate - solid white material.
Urine - colourless clear liquid.
Take
note of the bird’s faeces when it comes in. That way you can note any
change or abnormality e.g. if the faeces gets drier the bird may need more
fluid. It is important that you know what normal faeces is for that
particular species.
Respiratory tract of a typical bird
Birds have an elaborate respiratory system that extends throughout the body and links up with much of the skeleton. Because of this, minor respiratory infections can spread right throughout the body.
The respiratory cycle takes two inhalations and two exhalations to complete, the air passing through the lungs as well as the air sacs.
The air sacs distribute air through the body, thus lightening the body and enabling flight.
Birds with damaged air sacs may have a history of trauma e.g. baby falling from nest or being hit by a car.
Air sac infection can also be caused from general respiratory infections and usually show other symptoms such as laboured breathing, discharge from nostrils etc.
Drainage of the air sacs is poor and blood, pus or mucous will tend to collect in them. Sometimes liquid will drain back into the lungs drowning the bird.
Air bubbles may form under the skin if the air sac is obstructed or ruptured.
When you examine the bird you may be able to feel that over the area of the air sacs feels like crunching a potato chip bag if the air sacs have fluid in them.
Anatomy of a bird's mouth
There are quite a number of good Australian Field Guides to help in bird identification. They are available from bookshops, second hand book stores or at book fests.
Birds may be broadly classified into two large groups: Passerines and Non-Passerines. Passerines are classified as the song birds or perching birds that have three toes facing forward and one toe facing backwards. Non-Passerines are classified as the birds that have two toes facing forward and two toes facing backwards. Waterbirds with webbed feet are also in this group.
Birds have beaks that vary in their size, shape and function according to the way they live. Parrots have strong hooked bills for cracking seed and chewing out nest hollows. Raptors have a hooked bill for tearing prey into manageable pieces. Frogmouths have a short wide beak for scooping up insects. Honeyeaters have fine long beaks for probing nectar and pollen from flowers. Ducks have a very sensitive flat beak for sieving food through water. There are a few exceptions, such as lorikeets, who have beaks like the larger parrots, but have a "brush-like" tongue for extracting nectar and pollen.
\.
Birds' feet also vary in shape size and function. Raptors have long talons for gripping their prey. Ducks have broad webbed feet for paddling in water and walking on wet surfaces, while Noisy Miners have long fine toes for climbing around tree branches in search of insects and nectar.
Distribution maps in field guides help with the elimination process of identifying your bird. Do you have a Chestnut Breasted Cuckoo? Probably not, because in the distribution maps they are found in a small area at the very tip of North Queensland. Your bird is most likely the very similar Fan-Tailed Cuckoo which is found along most of the eastern side of Australia and in a small band along the coast of Southern Australia into Western Australia.
We get many calls from people who find baby birds on the ground. Often these babies are taken into care when they can be reunited with their parents or others of their kind. Mostly they are fledgling birds having just taken their first flight and have exhausted themselves and can't get up back into a nearby tree or bush. People will often tell you the parents are attacking the baby or attacking them for picking it up. In most cases the parents are trying to encourage the baby up to safety. Birds generally only kick a baby out if there is a problem. Examine the baby carefully. A baby can be returned if it is healthy, with no injuries. Eyes need to be bright and they need to beg for food (except for doves and pigeons).
Frogmouths Baby frogmouths are very adventurous from a young age and some just can't sit still. Many find themselves on the ground and picked up. They can be returned to their nest tree or a nearby nest tree in an artificial platform or nest. Frogmouths will sometimes adopt an orphan if you can't find where the baby has come from. Please note that frogmouths and other baby night birds have a bluish tinge to their eyes, this is normal. They are not blind.
Magpies Magpie babies usually fledge from the nest before they can strongly fly. Parent magpies will herd baby into low lying shrubs and go off in search for food.
Kookaburras Baby kookaburras need to ideally be reunited with their families or adopted out, because the family unit is very important to Kookaburra's survival. We have a lot of success in reuniting babies with their families. A Kookaburra baby fledged a little too early when his feathers were not quite fully grown. He was found to have a broken leg. The baby was taken into care, the leg splinted and healed successfully. The baby was returned to his very happy family two and a half weeks later. The family promptly started feeding him again. Three orphans were raised successfully after their termite mound nest was blown to the ground. A barrel was tied up into a nearby tree with the floor being made flat with a piece of wood. Holes were drilled into the bottom of the barrel in case rain seeped in. These babies all fledged. Sometimes you may get an orphan in where you don't know the location of its family. Providing he is reasonably young, he can be adopted out to your local kookaburras. Preferably just before fledging. The ideal situation is somewhere on some acreage where there are plenty of trees.
Noisy Miners Most can be reunited with their families if you know where they've come from. They will also adopt orphans quite readily.
Points when reuniting babies with their families.
· Place the artificial nest or baby in a sheltered place, protected from the weather and prying eyes of predatory birds.
· The person who called you or yourself need to keep an eye on the baby for a couple of days to see that all goes well. Check that the babies are being brooded at night if they have only a few feathers. If they aren't, its probably a good idea to bring them in at night. Most members of the public are happy to do this.
The importance of warmth to baby birds and indeed to any bird suffering shock or illness cannot be over emphasized. It is vital. A bird's body temperature is around 42°. Much higher than ours. Baby birds who are not feathered need to be kept around 35°. The temperature can be gradually reduced as it grows feathers. If the baby is. too hot, it will look distressed, hold its wings from its body and may pant. If the baby is too cold he will be lethargic, huddle together with others or the crop may be slow to empty. Smaller birds generally need higher temperatures as they lose body heat faster.
Most living things need sunlight to produce Vitamin D. Vitamin D helps the body to absorb calcium which is especially important when babies are growing for strong bones. Babies can be placed outside in their cages for IS - 20 minutes a day to enjoy a sun bath. Watch for predatory birds such as butcherbirds. They can also be placed near an open fly screened window. Sunlight loses some of its UV rays through glass.
Altricial birds are those birds such as magpies, doves and figbirds that hatch with little or no feathers, eyes are closed and they are completely dependent upon the parent for food and warmth. Precocial birds such as plovers, ducks and quail hatch with a coat of down and can usually walk around and feed themselves immediately.
Generally, the younger the bird the more often you feed and in smaller amounts. Chicks which gape to be fed such as small insectivores can be fed until the gaping becomes less enthusiastic. Usually small amounts every two to three hours during daylight hours is fine Insectivores will usually pass droppings when they receive the first mouthful. In very small babies they will produce a dropping that is enclosed in a sac. This makes it easy for the parent to remove it from the nest. Once the baby is able to point its bottom over the nest edge this usually disappears, and it becomes a little more runny looking. This is not necessarily diarrhoea. In birds with crops such as doves and parrots, a general role is to feed when the crop has emptied and it has passed droppings since the last feed. The chick can be fed until the crop feels nice and rounded. If the crop hasn't emptied completely, check the temperature (it may be a little low) and leave it a little longer before trying again. If these birds are overfed the food can be regurgitated up into the windpipe. Feeding a half empty crop can lead to fungal infections, crop impactions and other problems.
We try not to use feeding utensils such as toothpicks, tweezers etc as they can inflict damage if you aren't careful. Even with the tiniest babies you will soon get used to feeding with your fingers. Use small pieces of food or roll into small balls. The use of a crop needle can be a time saver in feeding babies with crops. Ask your vet or an experienced person in showing you how to use one.
Thoroughly clean feeding utensils between each feed. Food need to be made up fresh each day and small amounts warmed as required. Leftovers need to be thrown out. Never reheat leftover food from the last feed. Any food spilt on the baby need to be wiped gently with a dampened tissue, cloth or cottonwool at each feed. Food that has dried is almost impossible to remove. Babies can be kept on paper towel and this changed often.
Altricial chicks can be housed in boxes, ice-cream containers, hospital boxes, Warmth can be supplied with light globes, heating pads and fish tank lights. To increase or decrease the temperature the light globe can be heightened or lowered. Heating pads can be turned up or down, or extra layers of towel added or taken away. A good heat source can be made from a terracotta pot with a light globe fitting fitted into the hole at the bottom of the pot so that the light globe is suspended inside. Check that its not too hot to the touch, so that the baby doesn't get burnt. Use different watt light globes to heighten or lower the temperature. Closed hospital boxes need to have a source of humidity, so a small container of water needs to be included in the box. This needs to have a lid on it with perforations, so that the baby doesn't fall in and get cold or drown. Precocial babies such as plovers and ducks can be kept in a box with a desk lamp suspended over it or with the terracotta pot heat source. Ducklings shouldn't be allowed to swim in water until they are three to four weeks old. Ducklings usually get some waterproofing from the oil in Mum's feathers. With no Mum to do this they tend to get into the water dishes and become cold, so leave them with shallow dishes. Watch precocial babies initially, to see that they are eating and drinking. This is usually not a problem with more than one. You may be able to encourage them by putting the food firstly on the floor rather than in dishes and picking it up in your fingers and dropping it near them. Keep trying until they show some interest and start doing it themselves.
· Baby birds need warmth, food, suitable housing, sunlight, and hygienic conditions. They don't need kissing and cuddling. They are not pets, and it is not in their best interest to think of themselves as humans.
· If possible we group our babies into the same species, so they can form social bonds. In your area, another carer and yourself could swap babies.
· Once baby's are eating by themselves and are feathered, they can go out into an aviary to strengthen flying skills, become less familiar with humans and learn to recognize their natural foods.
· They should be allowed to be birds.
Birds as a general rule will need about two to three weeks exercise in a appropriate flight aviary to build up their flight muscles after being confined to a cage or have had an injury. They must be very fit, have good body weight and be healthy.
It is important when raising young birds that they know their natural food and know that they are birds. When raising babies, try to avoid raising them on their own. Try to group them together with other of their species. Aviary doors can be left open and babies can be supported once or twice a day when you have released them. It will help get them on their feet while getting to know the area and where food sources are. They do not have to be fed five times a day.
Territorial birds such as kookaburras, honeyeaters and magpies need to be released back into their own area if possible, as long as they haven't had a long absence from that area. It can be very difficult though if a bird comes into care and you do not know where it has come from. These birds need to be 100% fit.
Migrating birds are those that have a seasonal migration either breeding here and leaving for another destination for winter or breeding at another destination and spending the rest of their time in Australia. Some birds only migrate interstate. If you have a bird species that migrates, you must be aware of their migrating times e.g. Koels, Channel Bill Cuckoos They need to be released well in time for their migration or held over until they would normally return.
Nomadic birds such as some ducks, honeyeaters, birds of prey and wood swallows take advantage of the seasonal changes to take advantage of food and water supplies. Contact one of your co-ordinators to locate where the birds are when yours is ready for release.
Some birds are habitat specific, that is, they can only be found in certain habitats because they have a food supply there, breeding sites, suitable shelter etc. Some birds such as magpies and galahs like open country, others such as fruit pigeons need rainforest which produce fruits. Knowing the birds individual needs is important.
· They can feed themselves and recognize their natural food
· They are not imprinted on humans
· They can fly strongly upwards from the ground
· They are used to exposure to the elements
· Good weight
· Good feather condition
REMEMBER: Lifestyle of the bird has to be considered.
Mealworms are an easily reared food source for many birds and their cultivation is rather straightforward. You will need the following:-
· Any large container with steep smooth walls, such as plastic ice cream containers, plastic buckets or an old aquarium. (Note: if using an aquarium worms will escape up the silicone at the inside comer joints, so a cover such as some flyscreen can be used).
· A couple of containers of mealworms from a pet or produce store. This is a small outlay of funds if you can get your meal worm colony continually producing.
· Some unprocessed bran, the flake, not the "All-Bran" looking stuff. (available at around $0.30 at the supermarket).
· An old Hessian sack, or towel or similar material.
Most successful mealworm colonies seem to be kept on a single-container principle: all growth stages (mealworms, pupae and beetles) are maintained together for both breeding and continuous collection of large mealworms for feeding.
The container needs to be filled to within two or three inches of the top with the bran. A few tablespoons of wheat germ or flour can be added. Always leave the lid off the container, or use a well ventilated lid if escape by the meal worms is possible, otherwise condensation will create a problem. If the bran mixture becomes wet, it will become a sticky mess and the whole colony will slowly die.
Next, add the meal worms. Place a layer of newspaper on the top. Place some vegetable or fruit scraps on the newspapers as a source of water and food for the mealworms, then place the sack on top. Additional food is added to the colony from time to time, and it is usually necessary to clean out the container every few months. Gauge how much food your mealworms are eating, try not to overfeed. This can result in the scraps spoiling, going mouldy and the decline of your colony. So keep an eye on them every few days.
To get your culture started, you may be able to obtain mealworms from one of your fellow bird carers.
The beetles begin laying five to ten days after hatching. Each female lays 350 to 400 eggs during her lifecycle. The eggs hatch in eight to nine days and remain as larvae (mealwoms) for nine to twelve weeks.
If you find you have an abundance of meal worms, growth can be safely arrested for at least six weeks by placing a small container of them in your refrigerator. This container need to be half filled with dry bran and covered with plastic to retard dehydration. The 'hibernating' meal worms need to be taken out once a fortnight or so for a full day in order to be fed.
Mealworms grow the fastest in hot weather, so the growth of the colony can be controlled by either putting them in a cool spot or keeping them warm in winter.
Various species of ground dwelling crickets can be cultured to provide food for birds. They are extremely high in food value and easily digestible. Cages for breeding them need to have extensive floor space.
A good size for a cricket breeding cage would be 70cm wide, 40cm deep and 40cm high. The cages can be large plastic containers with tight fitting lids with very small air holes for ventilation. A small take away container filled with peat need to be provided for the adults to lay their eggs. This needs to be kept damp.
A small lid with a moistened sponge will provide them with water. Containers with water in them need to be avoided, as the crickets will get in and drown.
Crickets must be kept fairly warm - 30 C seems to be ideal. A 40 watt light globe can provide a heat source.
Any left over fruits and vegetables can be used to provide food, and some dry dog food can be provided too.
Each breeding cage of the above size can be stocked with approximately 50 pairs of adults. The females use their ovipositors to place the eggs directly into the peat. The young hatch after about 14 days. The young pass through five developmental stages to become adults after six weeks. Within a couple of weeks these new adults will also be laying eggs.
.
Keep the cage clean and dry, and clean out regularly.
FIRST AID FOR BIRDS. Written by Tim Hawcroft. Published by Lansdowne Publishing, Level 5, 70 George Street Sydney 2000.
EVERYBIRD A GUIDE TO BIRD HEALTH. Edited by Pat Macwhirter. Published by Reed International Books Australia Pty LtdTradingas Inkarta Press.
READERS DIGEST COMPLETE BOOK OF AUSTRALIAN BIRDS. Published by Readers Digest (Australia) Pty Ltd.
CUCKOOS, NIGHTBIRDS and KINGFISHERS OF AUSTRALIA. Edited by Ronald Strahan, Editor in Chief, National Photographic Index of Australian Wildlife. Published by Angus and Robertson, an imprint of Harper Collins Publishers. 25 Ryde Road, Pymble 2073.
Other titles in this series:
THE WRENS and WARBLERS OF AUSTRALIA.
THE SHOREBIRDS OF AUSTRALIA.
THE ROBINS and FLYCATCHERS OF AUSTRALIA.
HONEYEATERS and THEIR ALLIES.
PARROTS and PIGEONS OF AUSTRALIA.
BIRDS OF PREY and GROUND BIRDS OF AUSTRALIA.
CARING FOR BIRDS OF PREY. by Jerry Olsen. Published by Wild Ones Animal Books, 35625 Highway 190, Springville, California.
SIMPSON & DAY – FIELD GUIDE TO THE BIRDS OF AUSTRALIA – A BOOK OF IDENTIFICATION. by Viking O'Neil published by Penguin Books Australia Ltd.
WILDLIFE OF GREATER BRISBANE. Published by the Qld Museum with the support of the Environment Management Branch of Brisbane City Council.
ECOLOGY OF BIRDS: An Australian Perspective. Published by Surrey Beatty and Sons Pty Ltd Hugh A Ford. Available Qld Museum.
AUSTRALIAN BIRD REHABILITATION MANUAL. Edited by Norma Henderson For the WIRES Foster Carer Advisory Committee. Available from B.I.R.O. Approx cost $27.
WILD BIRD RESCUE MANUAL. Available from B.I.R.O. Approx cost $22.
OTHER SOURCES OF MATERIALS: Libraries, Book fests, CD-ROMs, Internet.
Internal parasites are part of a bird's life. All birds would have some parasite load to some extent. If factors are present such as sickness or stress they can become a problem. Worming medications are used to treat internal worm parasites. There are a different variety of worm parasites, which cause different symptoms and affect different parts of the birds' bodies e.g. roundworms, tapeworms, gizzard worms, threadworms, hairworms and caecal worms. Avitrol Plus Prazquantel is a broad spectrum bird worming concentrate said to treat these parasites.
Antibiotics are chemical substances which are capable of preventing the growth of bacteria or destroy bacteria. Some antibiotics are effective against a wide range of bacteria, while others are effective against a narrow range of bacteria. The use of an antibiotic will depend on the suspected bacteria involved. Some antibiotics will interfere with the bird's natural balance of good bacteria in their gut, and cause other problems such as thrush. A bird that exhibits the same symptoms as the bird you had in last week does not mean that the antibiotic you had last week will be appropriate for the present bird.
Always consult your vet if you feel the need to medicate birds with antibiotics. Antibiotics are usually indicated if there is infection present in a wound or in the body, or used as a preventive eg if the bird has been attacked by a dog or cat. .
Spark is a powder which is used to treat and prevent dehydration and stress in birds. It provides the birds with a little extra energy and electrolytes. It is not a cure all for everything, but has been used to keep birds going for a couple of days while they recover enough to take food. It is available from produce stores and veterinarians.
There are so many preparations on the market these days for so many things, and commonsense need to be your guide.
http://www.petalia.com.au/templates/prodSubList.cfm?group_no=2103
DEHYDRATION KILLS BIRDS
Spark Provides The Answer!
To
dehydrate something you remove the moisture from it - this is exactly what
happens to the dehydrated bird, its moisture is removed. Once water is
reduced in the body then organs cannot operate normally, now disease can
strike.
Spark is a unique formula electrolyte that is vital in the prevention and treatment of the dehydrated bird. This formula contains body salts that shift water from the gut into the blood. Spark also contains the highly efficient energy source MALTADEXTRAN. As all the dehydrated birds are short of energy the use of Maltadextran speeds recovery. Maltadextrans are long chains of glucose molecules specially linked together. In the gut the links are broken and the glucose is absorbed into the blood. The great advantage of Maltadextrans is the prolonged glucose release giving a continuous energy source.
When a bird loses body water, its blood flow to muscles alters and fluid is withdrawn from that muscle tissue to maintain blood volume. Once water is taken from a muscle it can no longer function properly and so the bird cannot fly. Birds in this state, even without infection, toxins or starvation are less able to fly and cope with stress. The sudden weight loss that we see in the sick bird is not protein loss, in fact the vast bulk of this is body water. Surprisingly birds can lose up to 30% of their body water and appear normal. By the time we see the weight loss the bird is in serious trouble.
Spark is easy to prepare, readily accepted by birds and is a good example of "prevention is cheaper than treatment". Most birds that are taken to veterinarians as emergencies have a history of inadequate water intake and can be assumed to be dehydrated – early fluid replacement with Spark by birdkeepers will help the bird replace fluid without interfering in treatments.
Veterinarians have several ways of giving fluids, under the skin, into the muscle, into the vein and even into the marrow cavity of bones. These are not things that the average birdkeeper can do, however all birdkeepers can give oral Spark. The addition of Spark to the drinking water before stress periods is a simple dehydration prevention method. Birdkeepers can predict when their birds will be stressed, e.g. shows, shipping, handling, moving aviaries etc. If their water is treated with Spark for a few days prior to the stress their body is better able to cope.
In the emergency situation of the sick bird the best method to give Spark is via a crop needle. This simple procedure is a "must" for all birdkeepers. Crop needling is quick, safe and effective. The fluids are given directly to the crop where they are taken up rapidly. The other critical factor when treating sick birds is the Hospital Cage - all sick birds must go in a hospital cage. When in the hospital cage the constant supply of Spark will greatly improve the birds' ability to recover. This is given by crop needle when the bird is critical and then in the water as the bird begins to recover. The use of the Vetafarm Medication Drinker will help to accurately determine the daily
water intake which should be approximately 6mL per 100g body weight.
Rather than try to determine if the bird is dehydrated, you are better to assume all sick, injured or stressed birds are dehydrated and give them Spark.
by Dr. Tony Gestier BVSc. (Hons.), MACVSc.
http://www.vetafarm.com.au/manage/documents/Dehydration.pdf
POLY-AID PLUS : The Mainstay of First Aid in Birds
"
The mainstay of first aid in birds" is how Dr. Tony Gestier, veterinarian at
the Vetafarm Research Facility in Wagga Wagga, Australia, describes
Vetafarm's protein and energy supplement, POLY-AID PLUS.
As a treatment for sick and injured cage birds the unique formula provides energy to birds that won't eat due to poor health. The physical condition of the sick or injured bird often deteriorates while diagnosis and treatment are begun. Nutritional support is used in all animals to "buy time" to allow medicines to work or surgery to be performed, but in birds this is especially important.
Poor health and deficient nutrient
According to Dr Gestier, poor health and nutrient deficit go hand in hand. Disease, stress, injury, shipping and chilling can cause a bird to be in "negative nutrient balance". Appetite is reduced in all ill birds, adding to the deficit of energy and protein. "Birds use tremendous amounts of energy, and when appetite diminishes, this energy quickly falls into short supply, the bird then breaks down it's muscle tissue to obtain energy causing it to become thin and weak" he explained. "This is especially a problem in young or severely stressed birds that do not have reserves to fall back on". POLY-AID PLUS, however, effectively provides the bird with more energy and prevents muscle tissue from wasting away.
The secret
The secret to the energy supply in POLY-AID PLUS is the use of special polymers called maltodextrins. "These long chains of glucose break down slowly in the birds stomach to release
glucose units for absorption and energy" said Dr Gestier. This supply of energy prevents the bird from drawing on it's own muscle tissue to keep organs like the liver and brain functioning.
Contains Maltodextrins, amino acids, vitamins, minerals and salts
Maltodextrins are not the only beneficial ingredient in this first aid formula. The supplement also contains amino acids ( the building blocks of protein ) that are readily absorbed by the bird's digestive system and are used to build muscle again. Added vitamins, minerals and salts are included to assist the bird to utilise the proteins and calories provided by POLY-AID PLUS.
The aim of the product
Dr. Gestier said that this powdered formula was devised with the aim of producing a concentrated energy source without upsetting the gut. Due to the slow release of glucose molecules from the Maltodextrins the diarrhoea associated with ordinary glucose supplements does not occur. The Vetafarm team drew on research work done in human endurance athletes to devise the perfect formula for avicultural first aid.
The key is early intervention
"Early intervention is the key to successful treatment of birds" said Dr Gestier. “Nutritional support must be given as soon as possible in the illness to prevent the bird becoming emaciated". POLY-AID PLUS should not be considered a drug or a specific cure for disease, it is used to keep the bird alive long enough to allow birdkeepers and veterinarians to diagnose the problem and begin treatment. Although this product will not fix disease, by supporting the bird with energy and protein the birds own defence mechanisms can often overcome the problem. Longer term force feeding of birds can be done with POLY-AID PLUS and Hand rearing Food. Birds that are in hospital boxes often require long term feeding with highly digestible foods rich in energy, protein and vitamins. Dr Gestier suggested that all birdkeepers should learn to crop feed birds so that good nutrition is not neglected in sick birds.
VETAFARM
http://www.vetafarm.com.au/manage/documents/POLY-AID%20PLUS%20Mainstay.pdf
Psittacosis (also known as "parrot fever", ornithosis, or chlamydiosis) is a widespread disease caused by an organism called Chlamydia psittaci. The pet bird owner may be increasingly aware of the prevalence of psittacosis, but that is believed due to improved diagnostic methods rather than actual disease incidence.
PSITTACOSIS IN PET BIRDS
The chlamydial organism commonly occurs in wild populations of numerous bird species, however, the clinical disease is precipitated by man-made stresses such as transport, changes in feed or environment and intensive breeding practices. Transmission of psittacosis is primarily by inhalation of infected dust from droppings or feathers, and is enhanced by close contact with sick birds that are shedding the organism. For this reason, the disease is most often seen in birds that have been recently transported, housed in pet shops or boarded with other birds.
TREATMENT
If psittacosis has been diagnosed in one of your birds, your veterinarian may recommend treatment of all exposed and potentially infected birds. To reduce the spread of the disease it is imperative that the patient be isolated from other birds on the premises. Although PSITTAVET is generally believed to be efficacious in treating chlamydiosis, the success of the treatment depends upon the species, age, presence of concurrent infections and immune status of the patient. Medication can be given by direct oral administration, by injection, as medicated pellets or mixed in soft foods. The specific medication and route of administration are left to the discretion of the veterinarian. Unless the birds are already accustomed to a pelleted diet, the use of medicated pellets is not appropriate as the stress involved in converting to a new diet may exacerbate the disease. The treatment period will last a minimum of 45 days. Depending on the condition of the patient, other forms of supportive therapy may be necessary. There is no immunity to the disease, and birds are susceptible to reinfection even after full recovery or previous treatment.
During treatment, the owner is advised to:
- Exercise caution in the handling of bird droppings
- Keep circulation of feathers and dust to a minimum
- Separate and isolate any other birds that may show beginning signs of the disease
- Avoid contact with birds by elderly, pregnant, sick or very young persons, especially in the early
stages of the treatment
- Reduce stresses in the birds environment.
CLINICAL SIGNS
There are no specific signs that are characteristic of psittacosis. Some birds may show general "sick" symptoms - lack of appetite, weight loss, depression and listlessness, watery green droppings, discharge from eyes or nares or even sudden death. Of course, these signs may be related to diseases other than psittacosis. Many birds carry the chlamydial organism but do not show any signs of the disease under stable conditions. These birds may become sick after some stressful occurrence, or breeding birds may pass the organism to their offspring who may die in the nest or at weaning. Young birds are more susceptible to a debilitating infection than are adult birds. Birds do not have to show symptoms of disease in order to transmit chlamydia.
DIAGNOSIS
Positive diagnosis of chlamydiosis in the live bird is sometimes very difficult, depending on the species, length of time since exposure and general condition of the bird. In addition to having the capability of producing disease on it's own, chlamydia undermines the immune system and opens the body to a host of other pathogens; thus, bacterial or viral disorders may be occurring at the same time. Because it is far easier to diagnose a bacterial problem, the chlamydiosis may be missed.
A chlamydiosis screening test is available (CLEARVIEW TEST)- this can be performed by an avian veterinarian . Your avian veterinarian may be able to make a presumptive diagnosis of psittacosis based on history, clinical signs, X-rays, blood work or other diagnostic methods. If psittacosis is suspected, treatment should begin at once, even as confirmatory tests are being run.
Further testing of affected birds is advised following therapy, as the treatment may not be fully effective, even though clinical signs abate. In extreme cases, especially those involving aviaries with significant losses, euthanasia may be necessary for individual birds if multiple tests indicate a persistent infection after repeated treatment attempts.
PREVENTIVE MEASURES
The following recommendations help prevent psittacosis in flocks or household pets:
1. Take all new birds to a qualified avian veterinarian immediately after purchase for chlamydiosis screening tests.
2. Buy birds from reputable suppliers who screen for the presence of chlamydia. An avian veterinarian in your area may be able to recommend a quality source.
3. Isolate all newly acquired birds for a period of at least 6 weeks.
4. Periodically monitor breeding flocks for chlamydiosis.
PSITTACOSIS IN HUMANS
The chlamydial organism is capable of being transmitted from birds to humans, but this rarely occurs despite the relatively high incidence of infection in birds. Although psittacosis infection in humans is normally mild, it is potentially dangerous for persons who are sick, elderly or immunosuppressed (e.g. AIDS patients). Persistent "flu-like" symptoms such as fever, chills, headache, weakness, fatigue and respiratory signs maybe experienced. Anyone who is exposed to pet birds and who develops a prolonged case of the flu should seek the advice of a physician because the condition in humans may be misdiagnosed.
by Dr. Tony Gestier BVSc. (Hons.), MACVSc.
VETAFARM
Office Address: 3 Bye Street Wagga Wagga NSW, 2650 AUSTRALIA
Postal Address: PO BOX 5244 Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 AUSTRALIA
Phone (ISD+61) 2 69 256222 Fax (ISD+61) 2 69 256333
email: vetafarm@vetafarm.com.au
Web Address: www.vetafarm.com.au
http://www.vetafarm.com.au/manage/documents/Psittacosis.pdf
Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease
Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD) is one of the most commonly seen diseases of parrots. The disease has been reported in over 61 species of parrot. It is caused by one of the smallest viruses known to cause disease and is called Psittacine Circovirus. The spread of this disease is suspected to occur when the bird comes into contact with virus-contaminated feather dust, faeces or crop secretions. The time between the bird being infected and the virus causing disease may be as short u 21 days but can be longer, depending on the age of feather development when the bird is affected.
Psittacine Circovirus causes abnormalities in the developing feather. Abnormal feathers replace normal ones as they are moulted. A bird affected by PBFD will gradually lose its feathers, often without showing any other initial sign of illness. In cockatoos, the powder down feathers (the small feathers not involved with flight) are often the first feathers affected and the beak may become glossy or may grow abnormally long and soft. A common appearance for Rainbow Lorikeets and Scaly Breasted Lorikeets is for them to lose their primary fight feathers of the wings and / or their tail feathers, though not all affected birds will display this. Affected birds are often poor fliers or cannot fly. Feather abnormality or loss is usually symmetrical over the body and slowly progressive. Secondary infections are common and these may include fungal, bacterial and viral infections. Most birds affected by PBFD eventually have difficulty eating, lose weight and die. Lorikeets may spontaneously recover after 1-2 years but it is currently unknown whether recovered birds can still transmit the disease to others. Currumbin Sanctuary plans to investigate this aspect of the disease further.
The clinical appearance of affected birds is often enough to make a diagnosis of PBFD. Feathers and blood from affected birds can be tested to confirm a diagnosis, but the tests are expensive. The majority of psittacine species do not develop immunity, do not recover from and do not respond to treatment of PBFD. As a consequence, euthanasia is best for these chronically ill birds and will also help in limiting the spread of this terrible disease in the wild.
A PROPERTY OF THE NATIONAL TRUST OF QUEENSLAND
A few points:
· Don't chastise yourself for making a mistake. Learn from it.
· Think carefully before keeping a bird that can't be released. Can you devote the time to it, give it a happy home with plenty of space? The first bird you get in maybe alright. But where do you draw the line in the future? You could start off with one and end up with fifty within a year. Are these permanents taking up aviary space, time and energy that you could be devoting to birds that could be released?
· Control your own life, don't let the public control your life. Encourage finders to bring the birds to you.
· Talk with other bird carers.
· Don't become too despondent with failures.
· Family relationships. Family first, birds second.
· Try to organise your aviary facilities in the winter period when you don't have a lot of birds in care.
· Use your network.
· If another member has many birds in care and you have none, offer to take a couple to lighten the load. This is a two way street. Holidays need not be a problem, ask someone to baby sit while you go away.
· Co-operate with other groups caring for wildlife. It is not a competition to see who has the most etc. Never lose sight of your ultimate goals, which need to be the appropriate care and rehabilitation of the birds in your care. Inter-group politics is counter productive.
· Be able to pass on birds to appropriate facilities.
· Relax! Enjoy your experiences.
Firstly, be aware of the lifespan of the bird you are about to purchase. Cockatoos generally have an average lifespan in captivity of generally 100 years, Corellas and Galahs generally 50 years. These birds can make wonderful lifelong companions if this is your intention for purchase. However, if this is not your intention, the obvious result will be disastrous for the term of your bird's life. They mostly will outlive their owners.
Purchasers of birds need to be provided with guidelines on the basic care necessary for the particular species of bird - the onus is on the vendor to provide information on a suitable diet and basic care necessary for that particular species of bird and the onus is also on the purchaser to seek out information to enable the purchaser to provide the bird/s with a correctly balanced diet to maintain health and well being.
Contrary
to general belief, Cockatoos, Galahs and Corellas require more than just
sunflower seeds in their diet. In fact, oil seeds such as sunflower
and safflower seeds need to not be used excessively. A recommended
parrot seed mix as well as a regular fresh supply of fruit and vegetables
need to be provided. Live food such as grubs, pupae and mealworms are
sought by some species of large Cockatoos. Grit and calcium blocks are
required at all times. It is strongly advised that the diet
requirements of the species of bird you wish to acquire is attained.
Daily cleaning of the bird's housing is of importance to maintain hygiene. To avoid contamination, water and feeding containers need to be cleaned ~ and fresh water provided. Birds need to be treated for internal and external parasites. Ill health or stress may be observed in bird's in a great variety of ways. Indications that require urgent attention include:-
· Changes in appearance of droppings;
· Marked changes in food or water consumption;
· Changes in behaviour;
· Absence of preening;
· Changes in appearance or posture;
· Raised ruffled feathers;
· Changes in weight;
· Enlargement of organs or swellings;
· Vomiting, injury or bleeding;
· Discharge from nostrils eyes or beak.
Birds when unwell will fluff out their feathers to maintain body heat. Eyes that are dull and lack lustre may be an indication of illness. Advice regarding any bird's health requirement need to be discussed with a Vet.
Parrots are extremely social creatures. In the wild they are found in groups. They require regular attention and bonding on a daily basis, to allow a psychological balance. These birds can be naturally noisy in captivity. Be aware that problems may arise within the neighbourhood due to their behaviour.
Due to the bird's size you need to ensure that daily exercise is allowed. If these birds are to be kept caged, please provide the largest size cockatoo cage available. Ideally, regular exercise needs to be obtained for the bird by allowing free flight in a large area. To relieve boredom and allow beak conditioning, fresh branches of native trees need to be placed safely in the cage to avoid injury. Natural perches of dead (not green) rough barked gums etc, around two inches in diameter need to be provided. These need to be changed periodically, to avoid painful foot problems. Under no circumstances should metal bars or smooth wooden dowelling be used for perches.
Obtaining literature and becoming aware of your bird's needs will ensure that the wellbeing of your feathered friend will be maintained. Should a bird that's been in captivity for many years be deliberately released back to the wild, there is a very good chance that the bird will not survive.
INDEX \c "2" \z "3081"
ALTRICIAL and PRECOCIAL BIRDS, 41
Altricial birds, 12
Anatomy of a bird's mouth, 38
Angled Bird Box, 28
Avian Pox, 17
Aviaries, 25
Avitrol Plus, 48
B.LR.O. NETWORK PROCEDURE, 7
BIRD AND POSSUM BOXES, 28
Bleeding, 8
Budgie Cages, 25
Calcium powder, 11
Canker, 16
Chopped greens, 12
Coccidiosis, 16
Corneal Ulcers, 21
CULTURING CRICKETS, 45
CULTURING MEAL WORMS, 44
Cuts and Wounds, 9
Diagram of the digestive tract, 36
DIGESTIVE, 36
Egg and Biscuit Mix, 12
EUTHANASING, 14
Example of closed fracture, 22
Example of open or compound fracture, 23
EYE INJURIES, 21
FAECES, 37
Farex, 10
FEATHERS, 34
FEEDING, 10
First Aid Kit, 9
FRACTURES, 22
Frogmouths, 40
Fungal Infections, 16
Galah Cages, 25
GAPEWORM, 17
Hand Rearing Mix, 11
HEAD INJURIES, 18
Heinz High Protein Cereal, 10
Hospital Warming Cage, 29
HOUSING, 25
hydrogen peroxide, 9
Hyphaema, 21
Kookaburra Box, 28
Kookaburras, 40
LARGE NATIVE PARROTS, 54
Lorikeet Dry Mix, 11
Magpies, 40
Medi-Puff, 9
micropore tape, 9
Nectar substitute (1), 12
Nectar substitute (2), 12
nest boxes, 27
Noisy Miners, 40
Nomadic Birds, 43
OPERATION NESTBOX, 30
Passerines and Non-Passerines, 39
Pet Food Mix, 12
POLY-AID, 49
Precocial birds, 12
Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease, 52
Psittacosis, 50
RAISING BABY BIRDS, 40
RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR VET, 13
Release, 43
Releasing hand raised babies, 43
RESPIRATORY SYSTEM, 37
Respiratory tract of a typical bird, 37
SANITY, 53
Savlon, 9
Shock, 8
SKELETON, 35
SPARK, 48
SPINAL INJURIES, 20
Spiruroid Worms, 17
Splinting leg fractures, 24
Structure of the Brain, 18
Structure of the eye, 21
Structure of the spine, 20
Sugar Nectar, 12
SUGGESTED READING, 46
Territorial Birds, 43
Trichomoniasis, 16
Uveitis, 21
Vertical Bird and Possum Box, 28
Vetwrap, 9
Wing Fracture Management, 23
Wombaroo Insectivore Raising Mixture, 10
